(with a digital camera)
We will use a method called 'afocal' photography. Basically, this means putting the camera up to the telescope in place of your own eye. Both the telescope eyepiece and camera lens are used. The equipment we have available for this project includes:
Telescope = Orion 4 1/2 inch Dobsonian:
Digital Camera = Fuji FinePix S3100:
Sky and Telescope has a short note I recommend. Here is another helpful short note.
Here is a nice little pep talk on how easy and great afocal astrophotography is. (Currently missing)
ScopeTronix has an excellent article on some of the technical problems of afocal astrophotography. Skip the first few pages on film photography.
Full Manual (not needed unless you have special problems)
Use the low power, greater length, 25 mm eyepiece (Giving about 36 power.)
Line up the finder on the telescope.
Point the telescope at an obvious object, say a street light, stop sign, or tall tree. Center the object in the eyepiece (you will have to focus to see it clearly).
Now adjust the small screws on the finder until the selected object is centered in the cross hairs of the finder. Double check the telescope eyepiece to make sure you have not bumped the telescope.
Skip the rest of this paragraph and go directly to my check list of essentials. The digital camera manual is 90 pages long and a little intimidating. However the menus are well laid out and I found the camera pretty easy to use after just a few tries. Mostly we can get by with the default camera settings which makes life MUCH simpler. Here is the Fuji 'Quick Start' guide on camera operation and computer hook up to give you an overview.
Here is my check list of the essentials.
In a perfect universe, you are running Win XP and have photo viewing and editing software on your computer. In that case, ignore everything Fuji says and their CD. Just hook the provided cable from the camera to a USB port on your computer. Turn the camera on to play back mode (the little green right arrow). The camera memory card just looks like another disk drive to your computer. Drill down through the directories till you get to the pictures and copy them to your hard disk. Note carefully the file name convention used for the pictures and MAKE SURE you do not copy some new pictures over old. Once you are satisfied the copy has been successful, you can disconnect the camera and use the camera menus to erase the pictures from the memory card. You could probably do this from your PC too. Hopefully a late model Mac will work similarly. Note that most computers have some pre-installed photo software which you may simple be unaware of. This is certainly true for Windows.
In an imperfect universe, you may not have good photo viewing and editing software and you may want to use the Fuji software. I have not tried this. Follow Fuji's instructions and let me know your experience. Your mileage may vary. If you computer is not USB ready it will probably be a headache. Sorry.
I expect that most any printer will give nice prints of your moon shots. I have fabulous prints from my photo inkjet printer on glossy paper and great pictures on my laser printer with regular cheap copy paper.
The moon pictures previously shown in class and taken by Penny Hauser were taking by simply holding the camera up to the eyepiece and shooting. Noting could be easier.
Remember, the full moon is boring. Shoot a crescent or gibbous moon.
Getting sharp views of the moon:
There is less atmospheric blurring when the moon is high in the sky.
The telescope takes 15 to 30 minutes to cool off, depending on the temperature difference between inside and outside.
Black pavement absorbs heat during the day and gives it back at nite. Avoid setting the telescope on dark pavement. Grass is good.
Heat radiates off of roofs. Try to avoid shooting over the roof of a nearby building.
The good news: Even if you ignore all this you will likely get a nice picture. It is the great pictures that require a lot of extra care.
fwk iupui 3-2008
